Most of the time when you buy a whole chicken, the packet of neck, gizzards, and chicken liver tucked in the cavity will leave you wondering what to do with them. Well, these are some of the best-tasting parts. So, packet by packet, collect and freeze the necks and gizzards for a good chicken soup, and the livers for this quick and delicious dish. Quickly sautéed chicken livers and slowly caramelized onions are such natural complements in taste and texture that they’re always a welcome supper dish in our house. The kids are a bit finicky about this dish, but I prepare it when Grandma, Giovanni, and I are at home. There’s nothing fancy about my version—though I do embellish the onions with a sweet-and-sour finish of vinegar and golden raisins. Chicken livers need a bit of attention—thorough trimming and rinsing, and fast cooking in a small amount of oil—and they’ll be crispy on the outside and tender on the inside.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4

　　2 tablespoon golden raisins

　　1 pound onions, peeled

　　4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　4 tablespoons butter

　　3/4 teaspoon or more salt

　　2 or 3 fresh bay leaves

　　2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

　　1 pound chicken livers

　　Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

　　

Recommended Equipment

2 large skillets, preferably 12 inches in diameter

　　

Frying the Onions

Step 1

Put the raisins in a bowl with warm water to cover, so they plump up for a few minutes.

　　

Step 2

Slice the onions in half and then crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick half moons (see photo, page 28). Put 2 tablespoons of oil and 2 of butter in one of the skillets and set it over medium heat. As the butter melts, stir in the onions, sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon salt, and drop in the bay leaves. Shake the pan and turn the onions as they heat and start to sizzle, then lower the heat slightly and cook the onions slowly as they gradually wilt and start to color, stirring and tossing them occasionally.

　　

Step 3

After 15 minutes or so, when the onions are deep gold all over, raise the heat a bit, pour in the vinegar, and cook for a minute, stirring the onions in the vinegar as it steams and evaporates. Drain the raisins, and gently squeeze out the excess liquid; scatter them in the skillet and toss together with the onions. Now lower the heat, and continue cooking the onions until they’re as dark and caramelized as you want them be. Turn off the heat, and let the onions rest in the hot pan.

　　

Cleaning and Frying the Chicken Livers

Step 4

While the onions are cooking, clean the livers (I do this on paper towels): with a paring knife remove all the fat, veins, and membranes, and slice the livers into separate lobes. Rinse them well, then pat dry with fresh paper towels. Sprinkle 1/4 teaspoon salt and grind pepper on all surfaces of the livers.

　　

Step 5

Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil and 2 of butter in the second skillet, over medium-high heat, until the butter is melted and foaming. Before the butter begins to color, lay the livers in the pan, without crowding them. With the heat high, cook the livers for 2 minutes or a bit more, until they’re browned and crisped on the underside, then turn them over (in the order in which you put them in the pan). Cook about 2 minutes on the second side, until they are nicely crisped all over, and lift them—a couple at a time—with a spider or slotted spoon; let the oil drain off, and place them in the first, warm skillet, next to the onions. Don’t overcook the livers: they should still be slightly pink inside when you move them. Taste a piece and season with more salt and pepper if you want.

　　

Step 6

If you will be serving right away, heap the onions on top of the livers, then spoon onions and liver together onto warm serving plates. If serving is delayed, leave the onions and livers in separate parts of the pan so the livers don’t get soggy. Smother the livers with onions when you serve.

　　

Serve With . . .

Step 7

Some piping-hot Basic Polenta (page 215), or grilled polenta (page 216).

　　

Step 8

Poached Whole Zucchini with Lemon and Olive Oil (page 237).

　　

Step 9

Skillet-Cooked Broccoli (page 277) or Skillet Cauliflower (page 268).

　　From Lidia's Family table by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich Copyright (c) 2004 by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich Published by Knopf.Lidia Bastianich hosts the hugely popular PBS show, "Lidia's Italian-American kitchen" and owns restaurants in New York City, Kansas City, and Pittsburgh. Also the author of Lidia's Italian Table and Lidia's Italian-American Kitchen, she lives in Douglaston, New York. Jay Jacob's journalism has appeared in many national magazines.From the Trade Paperback edition.