My mother’s friend Yoya Estrada is one of the sweetest ladies I’ve ever met, and she transmits her kindness through her hands. She shared this family recipe from Durango with me a few years ago, and it’s one of my favorites. It lasts awhile if it’s well wrapped. Enjoy it sliced on its own or serve it with an assortment of cheeses, even though that is not the traditional Mexican way.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 (10-ounce) logs

　　3 cups pitted dates (about 1 pound)

　　4 cups pecans (about 1 pound)

　　1 1/2 cups sugar, plus extra for rolling

　　1/2 cup water

　　

Step 1

Coarsely chop the dates with a lightly oiled knife. Place in a heavy pot and add the pecans, sugar, and water and cook over low-medium heat, stirring, until the dates have fallen apart and you can see the bottom of the pot when scraped with a spoon, 10 to 15 minutes. The mixture will be thick and you will feel it in your arm! Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly.

　　

Step 2

Meanwhile, dampen 2 large pieces (about 14 by 18 inches) of cheesecloth, and squeeze out the excess water. Lay out one of the cheesecloths and spread one-fourth of the mixture along the bottom (centered). Roll tightly into a log and remove the cheesecloth. Repeat with the remaining mixture to roll 3 more logs. (Use the second cheesecloth if the first one becomes too sticky or breaks.) Roll the logs in sugar and wrap well in plastic wrap, then put inside a resealable bag. Keep in a cool, dry area. The rolls can last up to 3 months stored this way. They may seem hard at first but once you slice them, you’ll see they are still delicious.

　　Reprinted with permission from My Sweet Mexico: Recipes for Authentic Pastries, Breads, Candies, Beverages, and Frozen Treats © 2010 by Fany Gerson. Photographs by Ed Anderson. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House.Buy the full book from Penguin Random House, Amazon, or Bookshop.