“Russian Sauce” is probably the origin of Russian dressing, though the two no longer have much in common; still, the pickles and capers mark the relationship. This is most traditionally made with sturgeon (which is a wonderfully sturdy and flavorful fish) but can be made with any firm white fillet, from carp, catfish, or sturgeon to red snapper, sea bass, or grouper. Serve with boiled potatoes or plain white rice.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

　　1/2 pound fresh button mushrooms, cleaned and sliced

　　1 small onion, chopped

　　1 pound tomatoes, cored and chopped (canned are fine), with their juices

　　1/4 cup good-quality black olives, pitted

　　1/2 cup diced sour pickles (cornichons are good; do not use sweet pickles)

　　1 tablespoon drained capers

　　1 cup fish stock, preferably homemade (page 161), or water

　　Salt and black pepper to taste

　　1 1/2 to 2 pounds fillets of carp, sturgeon, sea bass, red snapper, or other firm fish, skin removed

　　2 tablespoons cornstarch

　　1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley leaves for garnish

　　

Step 1

Put the oil in a deep skillet and turn the heat to medium-high. A minute later, add the mushrooms and onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook until they break down and release their juices, about 10 minutes. Stir in the olives, pickles, capers, stock, and salt and pepper and bring to a steady simmer.

　　

Step 2

Sprinkle the fish with salt and pepper, then gently slide the fillets into the stock and cook just until a thin-bladed knife passes through with little resistance, less than 10 minutes. Transfer the fish to a warmed serving dish.

　　

Step 3

Bring the sauce to a boil and reduce slightly. If you want a thickened sauce, as is traditional, mix the cornstarch with 2 tablespoons cold water and stir into the sauce. Lower the heat, then simmer until the sauce thickens; taste and adjust the seasoning. Spoon the sauce over the fish, garnish with parsley, and serve.

　　The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved.MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.