This dish can be made with lamb shanks, knuckle of veal (osso buco), or with cubed meat such as shoulder of lamb. Butchers sell fresh lamb shanks from the foreleg weighing about 10 ounces and frozen ones from New Zealand from the back leg weighing from 14 to 16 ounces. Lamb shanks cooked for a long time have a wonderful tenderness and texture without being stringy, and they produce a rich stock. Although they take a long time to cook, they don’t need any attention. The sauce is the classic Turkish egg and lemon terbiyeli sauce.

　　

Ingredients

serves 6

　　4 large or 6 small lamb shanks

　　3 garlic cloves, peeled

　　Salt and black pepper

　　14 ounces baby onions or shallots

　　3 large carrots, sliced

　　1 celeriac, peeled and cubed

　　3 medium new potatoes, quartered

　　2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

　　2 tablespoons chopped dill

　　2 egg yolks

　　Juice of 1 lemon

　　1 teaspoon sugar

　　

Step 1

Put the lamb shanks in a large pan and cover with water. Bring them to the boil, remove any scum, and add the garlic cloves, salt, and pepper. Cook, with the lid on, over very low heat for 2 to 2 1/2 hours, adding water if necessary to keep the meat covered, until the meat is so tender it can be pulled off the bone. Lift out the shanks and when cold enough to handle, remove the meat from the bones and set it aside in a bowl with a little stock to keep it moist. Ladle off as much fat as you can. If you are left with too much stock (you need only enough to cover the meat and vegetables), reduce it by boiling it down.

　　

Step 2

Put the vegetables into the stock (to peel the shallots or baby onions more easily, place them in boiling water and poach for a few minutes to loosen their skins; then peel them while still warm) and cook for 20 minutes, until all the vegetables are very tender. Return the meat to the pan and stir in the parsley and dill.

　　

Step 3

Just before serving, beat the egg yolks with the lemon juice and sugar in a bowl. Pour in a ladle of boiling stock from the stew, beating vigorously. Return this mixture to the stew, stirring constantly, and heat through for a moment or two, without letting the liquid boil again or the eggs will curdle.

　　Cooks' Note

　　It sometimes makes sense to start the dish a day ahead because of the time the shanks take to boil. In that case, let them simmer for the 2 to 2 1/2 hours, then let them cool in their broth and refrigerate. Remove the solid fat, which collects on the surface, before heating through and continuing as above.

　　Arabesque