This is a mainstay of Turkish kebab houses, where it is often dramatically served in a dish with a dome-shaped copper lid, the type that was once used at the sultan’s palace. I serve it in a large, round, clay dish, which can be warmed in the oven. This is a multilayered extravaganza. There is toasted pita bread at the bottom with tomato sauce poured over. This is topped with yogurt and sprinkled with fried pine nuts. Grilled ground meat kebabs or shish kebab (see above), or both, are laid on top. It requires organization and must be assembled at the last minute as the pita should remain a little crisp. The tomato sauce and meat should be very hot while the yogurt should be at room temperature.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4 to 6

　　

For the Tomato Sauce

1 small onion, chopped

　　2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

　　2 garlic cloves, chopped

　　1 chili pepper, seeded and chopped

　　1 1/2 pounds tomatoes, peeled and chopped

　　Salt and black pepper

　　1 to 2 teaspoons sugar

　　2 pita breads

　　1 1/2 pounds ground beef or lamb

　　Salt and black pepper

　　1 medium onion, finely chopped (optional)

　　1/4 to 1/3 cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

　　1 teaspoon sumac, plus a pinch more (see page 7)

　　2 cups plain whole-milk yogurt

　　2 tablespoons butter or extra virgin olive oil

　　2 to 3 tablespoons pine nuts

　　

Step 1

Make the tomato sauce first. Fry the onion in the oil until soft. Add the garlic and chili pepper, and stir for a moment or two. Put in the tomatoes, season with salt, pepper, and sugar, and cook over a medium heat for 10 minutes, until they soften and the sauce is reduced.

　　

Step 2

Open out the pita and toast them until they are crisp, then break them into small pieces in your hands.

　　

Step 3

For the kofta kebabs, season the ground beef or lamb with salt and pepper, and work it into a soft dough with your hands. Add the onion, if using, and the parsley, and work into the meat. Shape into sausages about 3/4 inch thick and 2 3/4 inches long. Arrange them on an oiled sheet of foil on a baking sheet and cook them under a preheated broiler for about 8 minutes, turning them over once, until well browned outside but still pink and moist inside.

　　

Step 4

Spread the pieces of toasted pita at the bottom of the serving dish and sprinkle over a pinch of sumac. Pour the hot tomato sauce all over and top with a layer of the yogurt beaten with a fork.

　　

Step 5

Heat the butter or oil with the pine nuts and stir in the remaining teaspoon of sumac. When the butter or oil sizzles, sprinkle it all over the yogurt. Arrange the meat on top and serve at once.

　　

variation

Step 6

For a rural yoğurtlu kebab, sauté small pieces of lamb in butter or oil with chopped onion, salt, and pepper. Serve on a bed of toasted and broken pita bread and pour warmed yogurt over the top. Mix a little paprika in sizzling butter and drizzle over the yogurt.

　　Arabesque