In Italy, it is called bruschetta, fett’unta, and by various names in different regions, but the basic concept is that bread, fresh or old, is grilled or toasted and then brushed with olive oil and rubbed with fresh garlic. Toppings are optional, and surely seasonal. In the United States, this Italian custom took on different versions and became garlic bread. Garlic bread was an open loaf of Italian bread brushed with butter or oil and lots of chopped garlic, sprinkled with dry oregano, and grilled or baked. I recall liking the grilled and warm bread from my Italian American restaurant visits, but the garlic was always too much for me. I must say that now, in most restaurants, the grilling and toasting of bread has come full-circle, and bruschetta as well as garlic bread graces the table. Here are three versions of the garlic bread made with the Italian American tradition in mind. Just keep a handle on the garlic.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4

　　3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　3 garlic cloves, crushed and peeled

　　12-inch loaf Italian bread without seeds

　　1 teaspoon dried oregano

　　Kosher salt, for seasoning

　　

Step 1

Combine the olive oil and garlic in a small bowl, and steep about 30 minutes, to let the flavors mingle.

　　

Step 2

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Split the bread in half lengthwise, then cut in half crosswise, to make four pieces. Set the pieces, cut side up, on a baking sheet, and brush the bread with the flavored oil, rubbing with the garlic cloves and leaving them on top. Sprinkle with the dried oregano.

　　

Step 3

Bake until the bread is golden and crispy, about 4 to 5 minutes. Remove any large garlic pieces, and lightly season the bread with salt before serving.

　　

garlic bread topped with cheese

Step 4

(Pane Strofinato con Formaggio): Substitute 1/4 cup grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano for the oregano.

　　

garlic bread rubbed with tomatoes

Step 5

(Pane Strofinato con Pomodoro): Cut some ripe tomatoes crosswise in half. While the baked bread is still hot, rub cut surfaces of the bread with the tomato halves, until the bread has absorbed the tomato juices and the tomato pulp has rubbed onto the bread. Season lightly with salt, drizzle some extra-virgin olive oil on top, and serve immediately.

　　Reprinted with permission from Lidia's Italy in America by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich and Tanya Bastianich Manuali. Copyright © 2011 by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich and Tanya Bastianich Manuali. Excerpted by permission of Knopf, a division of Random House, Inc. All rights reserved. Buy the full book from Amazon or Bookshop.