Cauliflower is another one of those vegetables that gets a bad rap. Yes, it’s in the cabbage family, and when the cauliflower is raw, the connection is easy to identify. Take a page from the Italians, then, who aren’t afraid of oil and know that giving some vegetables a dip in the fryer brings out their best characteristics. In this case, the cauliflower turns sweet and silken; add in some smoky shreds of ham hock and, well, you’ll be begging to eat cauliflower more often. Ask your butcher to split the ham hock for you; they have big saws for that very purpose. And don’t you dare throw away the liquid left over from boiling the ham hock. One bonus of this recipe is a soup waiting to happen.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4

　　1 smoked ham hock, split in half

　　1 head cauliflower

　　2 cups extra-virgin olive oil

　　Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

　　

Step 1

Place the ham hock in a deep pot and cover with cold water by 1 inch. Place over medium-high heat and boil for 2 to 2 1/2 hours, until the meat nearly falls off the bone. Remove the meat from what is now a delicious broth and transfer to a plate to cool. Reserve the broth for another use. When the meat has cooled enough to handle, shred the meat from the bone into bite-size pieces, removing and discarding any fat and tendon as you go. You should end up with about 1 1/2 cups of picked meat, depending on the size of the ham hock. Measure out 1 packed cup of meat and wrap in foil to keep warm. Reserve the rest for another dish.

　　

Step 2

To prepare the cauliflower, trim the stalk. Break into small florets of even size—no bigger than 1 1/2 inches long, with stems no thicker than a pencil.

　　

Step 3

Heat the olive oil in a heavy, deep saucepan fitted with a frying thermometer. When the oil reaches 350°F, shallow-fry the cauliflower in batches until golden brown, 4 to 6 minutes. Drain the fried cauliflower on paper towels and transfer to a warmed bowl. Work quickly so that the cauliflower stays hot. When all the cauliflower is fried, add the shredded ham hock, season with salt and pepper, and serve.

　　Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen