Those little bits of fish that you didn’t finish, or that you purposely put aside for another meal, take on new life in these scrumptious fish cakes. My rule of thumb is to use equal parts cooked fish and potatoes. If the fish you are using has been fried, scrape off the crusty exterior, because you want the cakes to be smooth inside.

　　

Ingredients

2/3-3/4 cup flaked cooked fish

　　2/3-3/4 cup mashed cooked potatoes

　　1 or 2 scallions, including tender green, chopped fine

　　Grated fresh ginger to taste

　　Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

　　Butter and/or light olive oil for frying

　　

Step 1

Mix the fish and the potatoes with a fork, then work in the other ingredients. You’ll probably want to start with about 1/4 teaspoon of the grated ginger, which really lifts the flavors, but use more if you want. Form the mixture into two round patties. Heat a tablespoon of butter or oil (I always prefer a mixture of both, so the butter won’t burn), and when it is sizzling, lay in the fish cakes and cook over medium heat for about 4 minutes on each side.

　　

Variations

Step 2

Vary the seasonings. Sorrel is particularly good with salmon, but you would need to sauté a small handful of leaves first, gently, in a little butter, until they turned limp and gray-green in color, then chop them and mix in with the fish and potatoes. Fresh tarragon, chives, and dill also make good complements. And if you want your fish cakes very crusty, brush them with beaten egg and dredge them in panko, those wonderful Japanese breadcrumbs that give such a crusty finish.

　　The Pleasures of Cooking for One by Judith Jones. Copyright © 2009 by Judith Jones. Published by Knopf. All Rights Reserved.Judith Jones is senior editor and vice president at Alfred A. Knopf. She is the author of The Tenth Muse: My Life in Food and the coauthor with Evan Jones (her late husband) of three books: The Book of Bread; Knead It, Punch It, Bake It!; and The Book of New New England Cookery. She also collaborated with Angus Cameron on The L. L. Bean Game and Fish Cookbook, and has contributed to Vogue, Saveur, and Gourmet magazines. In 2006, she was awarded the James Beard Foundation Lifetime Achievement Award. She lives in New York City and Vermont.