Escarole is in the chicory family, the bitter dark-green vegetables that Italians love. Escarole played such a big role in the cooking of Italian Americans because it seemed to be one of the few chicory vegetables available here in the States. It is a very versatile and inexpensive vegetable as well: easy to grow, resilient to cooler weather, and giving a large yield per head. The outer leaves can be used in soups, braised with garlic and oil, or stuffed; the tender center white leaves are great for salads. This is an Italian recipe, but the ingredients are adapted to include the local ingredient kale, much loved and eaten in the States.

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 quarts

　　6 quarts water

　　1 pound dried cannellini beans, soaked overnight and drained

　　4 fresh bay leaves

　　3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　1 1/2-pound head green kale or cavolo nero, tough stems removed, leaves washed and coarsely shredded

　　12-ounce head escarole, tough stems removed, leaves washed and coarsely shredded

　　2 tablespoons kosher salt, plus more as needed

　　

for finishing

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving

　　10 garlic cloves, sliced

　　7 whole dried peperoncini

　　Grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, for serving

　　

Step 1

Boil the 6 quarts water with the drained beans and the bay leaves in a large soup pot. Adjust the heat to a rapid simmer, pour in the olive oil, and cook partially covered until the beans are halfway cooked, about 30 minutes. Add the kale, and cook uncovered for an additional 15 minutes. Add the escarole and 2 tablespoons salt, and cook until the beans and greens are tender and the soup has reduced to about 4 quarts, another 20 to 30 minutes.

　　

Step 2

To finish the soup: Heat the 1/2 cup olive oil in a skillet over medium-low heat. Toss in the garlic and peperoncini and cook, stirring occasionally, until garlic is golden and fragrant, about 2 to 3 minutes. (Do not let the garlic or peperoncini burn.) Carefully add a few ladles of soup to the skillet, let simmer a minute or two, then pour the contents of the skillet back into the soup pot.

　　

Step 3

Taste for salt, return the soup to a simmer, and cook another 10 minutes, to blend the flavors. Remove the peperoncini. Serve with a drizzle of olive oil and grated cheese.

　　Reprinted with permission from Lidia's Italy in America by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich and Tanya Bastianich Manuali. Copyright © 2011 by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich and Tanya Bastianich Manuali. Excerpted by permission of Knopf, a division of Random House, Inc. All rights reserved. Buy the full book from Amazon or Bookshop.