I make a platter of these crumb-coated baked morsels for the kids when they come over because I know they will enjoy them and be nourished. But I notice most of the adults take a piece too. The cutlets have the crunchy appeal of fast-food-style fried “nuggets” and “fingers,” but they are better in every way. (You may notice that the coating is the same blend of grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and bread crumbs that is so good on broccoli-and-cauliflower and string-bean gratinati, in chapter 4, pages 243 and 245.) Turkey has great flavor and texture, but chicken-breast pieces are also good prepared this way. I usually buy turkey-breast cutlets (organic or naturally raised) and slice them up; packaged turkey tenders (the meaty flap inside the breast) are even more convenient— cut them in half, or pound them flat and use the whole tender. The crispy tenders are great served with a green salad. Instead of the usual ketchup condiment, try some Summer Tomato Sauce (page 256), or the Quince, Cranberry, and Apple Sauce on page 367. They are wonderful served as a main course with Skillet Brussels Sprouts (page 271) or Skillet String Beans with Gorgonzola (page 247).

　　

Ingredients

serves 6, or more if serving small eaters under 4 years of age

　　2 pounds turkey-breast cutlets or “tenders,” or skinless, boneless chicken breast

　　1/4 teaspoon salt

　　3 plump garlic cloves, sliced

　　3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

　　1 to 2 tablespoons butter, for the baking sheet

　　

For the Cheesy Crumbs

1/2 cup dry bread crumbs

　　3/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana Padano

　　2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley

　　2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling on the cutlets

　　

Recommended Equipment

A 12-by-18-inch rimmed baking sheet

　　

Step 1

Rinse and dry the breast pieces, and trim off all fat and tendons. Slice the meat (with the grain rather than across it) in strips roughly 2 inches wide and 4 inches long: you should get ten to fifteen pieces. Pound thick or uneven pieces, if necessary, with a meat mallet or other heavy flat object, so they’re an even 1/2-to-2/3-inch thick.

　　

Step 2

Put the strips in a bowl and toss them with the salt, garlic slices, and olive oil. Let them marinate for at least 15 minutes, preferably 1/2 hour, at room temperature.

　　

Step 3

Meanwhile, set a rack in the upper third of the oven—nearer the top for browning—and heat it to 425°.

　　

Step 4

Toss and stir together the bread crumbs, grated cheese, parsley, 2 tablespoons of olive oil, and the salt until thoroughly blended. Lightly butter the baking sheet.

　　

Step 5

When the meat has marinated, lift out a few pieces and pick off the garlic slices. Drop the strips in the crumbs and roll them around, then pick them up one by one and press the crumbs so they stick to the meat on both sides. Try my one-hand technique: scoop up a turkey strip and crumbs in the palm of your hand, then close your fingers and squeeze tight.

　　

Step 6

Lay the coated strips flat on the baking sheet, spaced at least 1/4 inch apart. If you see bare spots of meat, press on a few of the remaining crumbs. Drizzle a bit more olive oil on each strip, and put the pan in the oven.

　　

Step 7

Bake for 10 minutes, rotate the sheet back to front, and bake for another 10 minutes, or until the crumbs are golden brown on top and the meat is cooked through but still moist. Cut a piece open to check doneness: if the crumbs are browning quickly while the meat is still uncooked, set the tray lower in the oven and/or lay a sheet of foil on top of the cutlets. Don’t let them overcook, and move them to a platter as soon as they come out of the oven, so they don’t dry out on the hot baking sheet.

　　

Step 8

Serve hot or warm. They are still very good reheated, and they make great sandwiches.

　　

A Secret Flavoring

Step 9

From a cook’s point of view, the turkey gains in flavor immensely from a short marinating period in olive oil with lots of sliced garlic. Marinating is a great way of imbuing flavor into meats and fish in a gentle fashion. When you feel they do not have enough intrinsic flavoring, marinate them even though the recipe might not call for it. You must give the ingredients enough time—at least 15 minutes to several hours or overnight—to have an exchange.

　　

Step 10

Marinating is also a successful way of introducing new flavors to your family, especially children. Strong flavors like garlic, rosemary, bay leaves, and ginger can be difficult for a finicky eater to take directly, but in marinades they come through in soft dosages. This is how I develop and train my grandchildren’s palates. The palate communicates information, which is stored in the brain, like a reference library, and becomes a resource for enjoying, recognizing, and preparing food. It is important that we fill up our reference library so that we can recall information when needed. There is no stronger memory recall than that of our olfactory sense. I am sure that all of you at some time or other have been brought back by an overpowering sense of smell to something that seemed lost in memory. As I describe on page 249, I introduce my grandchildren in their early months to herbs by crushing them under their noses. I am training their palates and expanding their repertoire of tastes in much the same way I am introducing them here to the gentle infusion of flavors that marinades give.

　　From Lidia's Family table by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich Copyright (c) 2004 by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich Published by Knopf.Lidia Bastianich hosts the hugely popular PBS show, "Lidia's Italian-American kitchen" and owns restaurants in New York City, Kansas City, and Pittsburgh. Also the author of Lidia's Italian Table and Lidia's Italian-American Kitchen, she lives in Douglaston, New York. Jay Jacob's journalism has appeared in many national magazines.From the Trade Paperback edition.