When I was a young cook, every restaurant I worked in used a tuile to present ice cream. The tuiles kept the ice cream from sliding around on the plate; but while they were pretty, they didn’t impart any flavor. So I started making crumbles and streusels to set underneath ice creams. They have the added bonus of reinforcing flavors and adding texture. I lay quenelles of ice cream on a pile of these intense chocolate crumbs, but you could easily sprinkle the crumble over a scoop of ice cream.

　　

Ingredients

makes about 3 cups

　　6 1/2 tablespoons (94g) unsalted butter, softened

　　1/3 cup (30g) unsweetened cocoa powder (preferably Valrhona)

　　3/4 cup (94g) all-purpose flour

　　7 tablespoons (87g) sugar

　　1/4 teaspoon (1g) coarse salt

　　

Step 1

Heat the oven to 375°F or 350°F on convection. Line a baking sheet with a Silpat or parchment.

　　

Step 2

Cut the butter into pieces and put it in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle. Whisk the cocoa powder, flour, sugar, and salt together and add to the bowl. Mix at medium speed until well combined, dark brown, and in big crumbs.

　　

Step 3

Spread out on the baking sheet, breaking up the biggest crumbs and leaving room for spreading. Bake until crisp, about 20 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through baking. Let cool.

　　

Step 4

When the crumble is cool, put it in a food processor and process to fine, even crumbs. Store in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

　　Reprinted with permission from Dessert Fourplay: Sweet Quartets from a Four-Star Pastry Chef by Johnny Iuzzini and Roy Finamore. Copyright © 2008 by Johnny Iuzzini and Roy Finamore. Published by Crown Publishing. All Rights Reserved.Johnny Iuzzini,, executive pastry chef of the world-renowned Jean Georges restaurant in New York City, won the award for Outstanding Pastry Chef from the James Beard Foundation in 2006. This is his first book.Roy Finamore, a publishing veteran of more than thirty years, has worked with many bestselling cookbook authors. He is the author of three books: One Potato, Two Potato; Tasty, which won a James Beard Foundation award; and Fish Without a Doubt.__