Season: September to December. Hawthorn is a lovely tree that grows throughout the United States. Frothy white blossoms herald the beginning of summer, and the fading flowers later give way to clusters of blood-red berries, or haws. These swathe the trees from early autumn well into winter-sometimes even through to the new year. The peppery, lemony little berries are too tart to eat raw, but I love them cooked into this sweet-sour sauce. Hawthorn tends to fruit prolifically, so you should have little trouble gathering enough haws. Do avoid picking from roadside bushes, however, as these may have absorbed fumes and pollution (although, for some reason, they often seem to be laden with the biggest and juiciest berries of all!). Serve haw ketchup with rich meats such as venison or slow-roasted pork belly. It is also terrific drizzled over Welsh rarebit. My favorite way to enjoy this spicy sauce, however, is with a really good nut roast, served with a crisp green salad

　　

Ingredients

makes one 10-ounce bottle

　　1 pound, 2 ounces haws

　　1 1/4 cups white wine vinegar or cider vinegar

　　3/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar

　　1/2 teaspoon salt

　　Ground black pepper to taste

　　

Step 1

Strip the haws from the stems–the easiest way to do this is to snip them off with a pair of scissors or pruning shears. Rinse in cold water.

　　

Step 2

Put the haws into a pan with the vinegar and 1 1/4 cups of water and simmer for about 30 minutes–the skins will split, revealing the firm, yellow flesh. Cook until the flesh is soft and the berries have become a muted red-brown. Remove from the heat. Press the mixture through a sieve or pass through a food mill to remove the largish seeds and the skins.

　　

Step 3

Return the fruity mixture to the cleaned-out pan. Add the sugar and heat gently, stirring, until it dissolves. Bring to a boil and cook for 5 minutes. Season with the salt and pepper. Pour into a sterilized bottle (see p. 152) and seal with a vinegar-proof cap (see p. 22). Use within 1 year.

　　The River Cottage Preserves Handbook by Pam Corbin.Pam Corbin has been making preserves for as long as she can remember, and for more than twenty years her passion has been her business. Pam and her husband, Hugh, moved to Devon where they bought an old pig farm and converted it into a small jam factory. Using only wholesome, seasonal ingredients, their products soon became firm favorites with jam-lovers the world over. Pam has now hung up her professional wooden spoon but continues to "jam" at home. She also works closely with the River Cottage team, making seasonal goodies using fruit, vegetables, herbs, and flowers from her own garden, and from the fields and hedgerows.