Most people are introduced to galangal, a relative of ginger, by way of Thai curries and seafood soups. The rhizome is seldom used in Vietnamese cooking, but when it is, it is paired with other bold-flavored ingredients. Here, its pungent heat brightens a northern fish kho, with the bittersweet caramel sauce tempering its fire. Use the smaller amount of galangal if you want a dish with less intensity. Although salmon isn’t native to Vietnam, it takes on the robust flavors of the kho remarkably well. Fresh side pork (pork belly), which you can find at Asian markets, is the stealth ingredient here, enrobing everything with its richness to create a unique surf-and-turf combination. The result is spicy, savory, and a touch sweet.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4 to 6 with 2 or 3 other dishes

　　2 teaspoons brown sugar

　　1/4 teaspoon black pepper

　　1/4 teaspoon salt

　　2 1/2 tablespoons Caramel Sauce (page 316)

　　1 1/2 tablespoons fish sauce

　　2 salmon steaks, each 10 to 12 ounces and about 1 inch thick

　　6 to 8 slices fresh galangal, each about 1/8 inch thick, or 3 to 5 slices dried galangal

　　1/3 pound lean side pork (pork belly), cut into 1/4-inch-thick strips and then into 1-inch squares

　　

Step 1

In a bowl, stir together the brown sugar, pepper, salt, caramel sauce, and fish sauce. Add the salmon and turn to coat evenly. Set aside for 15 minutes to marinate.

　　

Step 2

Select a shallow saucepan in which the fish steaks will fit snugly in a single layer. Arrange the galangal slices on the bottom. Place the fish steaks on top, and drizzle with the marinade. Put the pork in the open spaces between the steaks.

　　

Step 3

Bring to a vigorous simmer over medium-high heat. Adjust to a simmer, cover, and cook for 10 minutes, checking midway to make sure there is enough liquid in the pan. If the pan seems dry, splash in a little water. During this stage, the fish will more or less cook in the steam trapped in the pan. The liquid will bubble vigorously, and plumes of steam may shoot from under the lid.

　　

Step 4

Uncover, add water almost to cover the fish, and bring to a gentle simmer. Cover and cook for 1 hour. Uncover and adjust the heat, if necessary, to continue at a gentle simmer. Cook for another 15 to 18 minutes, or until the liquid has reduced by half and has thickened slightly, forming a sauce.

　　

Step 5

Taste the sauce and adjust the flavor with a pinch of brown sugar to remove any harsh edges, or a sprinkling of fish sauce for more savory depth. Carefully transfer the fish to a shallow bowl. Don’t worry if the steaks break up a bit. Surround the fish with the pork pieces, pour the sauce over the fish and pork, and serve. To eat, put fish and pork on your rice and spoon on a bit of sauce.

　　Cooks' Note

　　To simmer the fish in a clay pot, use a small (1 1/2-quart) Japanese donabe about 8 inches wide. For details on clay pot cooking, see opposite.

　　Reprinted with permission from Into the Vietnamese Kitchen: Treasured Foodways, Modern Flavors by Andrea Nguyen. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House. Copyright © 2006.  Photographs by Leigh Beisch. Buy the full book from Amazon or Bookshop.