We are not a steakhouse, so I’m always pleasantly surprised when our customers tell us that our rib-eye is their favorite steak in Los Angeles. We start with quality, conventionally raised meat, just like what you will be able to get at a good butcher. The reason our steak is so good is the rub we coat the meat with before grilling it. The rub contains dried porcini, which have a delicious, earthy flavor, and a tiny bit of sugar, which caramelizes on the grill and gives the steak a beautiful crust. More often than not our customers share it among two or three people along with two or three contorni, such as Smashed Potatoes with Rosemary (page 255), Cipolline with Thyme and Sherry Vinegar (page 254), and Sautéed Broccolini with Chiles and Vinegar (page 262) to eat along with it. We order our rib-eyes “frenched,” which means that the meat is cut off the bone so the bone looks almost like a handle, which makes for a more unusual, elegant presentation. If you have a butcher who will do that for you, great. If not, it won’t make a bit of difference in the flavor. Unlike a French preparation, served with a heavy Béarnaise sauce, ours is served with Italy’s two best condiments: quality extra-virgin olive oil and aged balsamico condimento.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4 to 6

　　2 ounces dried porcini

　　1 tablespoon red pepper flakes

　　1/4 cup sugar

　　2 tablespoons kosher salt, plus more for seasoning

　　2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper, plus more for seasoning

　　4 rib-eye steaks (preferably frenched)

　　Finishing-quality olive oil

　　Aged balsamico condimento

　　

Step 1

Grind the porcini to a powder in several batches in a spice grinder. Turn the ground porcini out into a large mixing bowl. Put the red pepper flakes in the spice grinder, grind them until finely chopped, and add to the bowl with the porcini. Add the sugar, salt, and pepper, and stir to combine the ingredients. The rub will keep indefinitely, stored in an airtight container at room temperature, but it will lose its luster after about 30 days.

　　

Step 2

Wrap kitchen twine around the perimeter of each steak, and tie the ends closed in a bow. (This helps maintain the shape of the steak so it cooks more evenly.) Cut off and discard the excess twine and lay the steaks on a clean cutting board. Pour the rub onto a plate or pie pan. Place one steak in the rub and turn it to coat both sides and the edges in a generous, even layer with the rub. Place the prepared steak on a platter or baking sheet and repeat with the remaining steaks. Grill the steaks or cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 4 hours. Remove the steaks from the refrigerator and bring them to room temperature before grilling.

　　

Step 3

Prepare a hot fire in a gas or charcoal grill or preheat a grill pan or heavy-bottomed skillet over high heat. Season both sides of the steaks liberally with salt and pepper, and sprinkle additional rub on any bare spots.

　　

Step 4

Place the steaks on the hottest part of the grill or in the grill pan to cook, turning every 6 to 8 minutes, for about 25 minutes for medium rare, or until they reach an internal temperature of 125°F. Remove the steaks to a cutting board or platter and let them rest for 10 to 15 minutes before serving. Remove and discard the twine. Serve the steaks whole or sliced against the grain. If you are moving the steaks from a cutting board to plates, drizzle them with the juices that have collected on the surface they were resting on. Serve with finishing-quality olive oil and balsamico on the side.

　　

suggested wine pairing

Step 5

Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany)

　　The Mozza Cookbook