These two egg-based sauces are examples of emulsions, among the most ethereal of the sauces in the classic canon. Emulsions are mixtures of two substances, such as oil and vinegar, that would not usually combine; made properly, they are perfectly smooth and delectably rich yet surprisingly light. Although other ingredients, such as butter and mustard, can act as emulsifiers, the egg yolk is the most effective. It is also a stabilizer, holding the emulsion over time.

　　

Ingredients

mayonnaise

1 large egg yolk

　　1 teaspoon dijon mustard

　　2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

　　1/4 teaspoon coarse salt, or to taste

　　1 cup sunflower, safflower, or grapeseed oil

　　(makes 1 cup)

　　

hollandaise sauce

1/4 cup dry white wine

　　1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

　　1 tablespoon minced shallot (1/2 medium)

　　1/2 teaspoon cracked black peppercorns

　　3 tablespoons boiling water

　　3 large egg yolks

　　3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature, cut into tablespoons

　　1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

　　1/2 teaspoon coarse salt

　　Pinch of cayenne pepper

　　(makes about 1 1/2 cups)

　　

mayonnaise

Step 1

PLACE EGG YOLK, MUSTARD, 1 teaspoon lemon juice, and salt in a mixing bowl and whisk together until mixture is smooth and thoroughly combined. To add the oil, start with one drop at a time and whisk constantly until the mixture begins to thicken; add remaining teaspoon lemon juice, then pour the oil in a very slow, steady stream and continue whisking until all the oil is incorporated and the sauce is thick and emulsified. Use immediately, or refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

　　

hollandaise sauce

Step 2

Make reduction Combine wine, vinegar, shallot, and peppercorns in a small skillet over medium-high heat; cook until reduced to 1 tablespoon, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the boiling water and strain through a fine sieve into a heatproof nonreactive (stainless-steel or glass) bowl.

　　

Step 3

Prepare bain marie (hot-water bath) Fill a medium saucepan with 2 inches of water and bring to a boil, then reduce heat so water is barely simmering.

　　

Step 4

Heat egg yolks Add egg yolks to strained reduction and whisk, off the heat, until they become pale. Place bowl over the bain-marie. Whisking constantly, cook until the mixture is thick enough to hold a trail from the whisk and begins to hold its shape when drizzled from the whisk. Remove from heat. Wipe off any mixture that may have cooked onto the side of the pot with a damp paper towel to prevent any lumps from forming.

　　

Step 5

Incorporate butter Whisking constantly, add butter 1 tablespoon at a time, whisking until each addition is incorporated completely before adding the next. When all the butter has been added, season with lemon juice, salt, and cayenne. The sauce should be thick but still able to drizzle from a spoon (and it should form a pool, not a mound). If it is too thick, thin it with a little water.

　　

SEPARATING AN EGG

Step 6

Crack the side of a cold egg on a flat surface—not on the rim of a bowl, which could shatter the shell—then use thumbs to pull it apart. Pour the yolk back and forth between the eggshell cups, letting the white run out into a bowl beneath. Then drop the yolk into a separate bowl. Transfer the white to a third bowl before repeating; if any yolk breaks and lands in the first bowl, you won’t have to discard all the whites.

　　

Mayonnaise Tip

Step 7

To fix a broken emulsion (it will appear curdled), put 1 teaspoon of water (cold if it’s a warm emulsion, warm if it’s cold) in a bowl. Whisk sauce into water until it’s smooth and creamy again.

　　

Ingredients

Step 8

Although traditionally made with melted clarified butter (page 88), softened butter emulsifies more readily with the egg yolks and produces a lighter texture.

　　

Hollandaise Tips

Step 9

Do not overheat the egg yolks; “temper” them instead by mixing with a bit of boiling water before placing in the hot-water bath to keep them from scorching.

　　

Step 10

Simmer over very low heat. If the egg mixture is heated too quickly, it turns grainy; if cooked too long over too high a temperature, it will scramble.

　　

Step 11

Add butter gradually to allow the mixture to emulsify. Adding too quickly will cause the emulsion to “break” or separate, preventing the liquid and butter from combining.

　　

Step 12

Adjust the finished sauce with water to thin, and add lemon juice, salt, and cayenne pepper to flavor.

　　

Step 13

If not serving immediately, cover with plastic wrap, pressing it directly on the surface of the sauce to prevent a skin from forming, and set over a pot of water that has been brought to a simmer and then removed from heat, or in a warm spot on the stove for up to 1 hour. Alternatively, store in a clean thermos warmed with hot but not boiling water, holding it for 2 or 3 hours at most.

　　Reprinted with permission from Martha Stewart's Cooking School: Lessons and Recipes for the Home Cook by Martha Stewart. Copyright © 2008 by Martha Stewart. Published by Crown Publishing. All Rights Reserved.Martha Stewart is the author of dozens of bestselling books on cooking, entertaining, gardening, weddings, and decorating. She is the host of The Martha Stewart Show, the Emmy-winning, daily national syndicated program, and founder of Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia, which publishes several magazines, including Martha Stewart Living; produces Martha Stewart Living Radio, channel 112 on SIRIUS Satellite Radio; and provides a wealth of ideas and information on www.marthastewart.com.