The quince trees at our River Ranch property are just delivering their first harvest at the time of the Workshop. Many chefs are captivated with these uncommon autumn fruits, which are rockhard and astringent when raw and must be cooked to release their floral perfume. Chef David Everett made a memorable quince chutney for duck breasts when he attended the Workshop in 1994. Brian likes to serve the same chutney with brined pork chops. Cooking the pork on the bone enhances flavor and seals in the succulence imparted by the brine. Accompany the pork with braised escarole or Tuscan kale, or with Brussels sprouts and chestnuts. Any leftover chutney will keep for at least a week in the refrigerator and would be delicious with blue cheese. Note that the chops need to rest in the brine overnight.

　　

Ingredients

serves 4

　　

Brine

1 quart cold water

　　1/3 cup kosher salt

　　1/4 cup sugar

　　3 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed

　　1/2 teaspoon fennel seed, coarsely crushed in a mortar

　　1/2 teaspoon coarsely cracked black pepper

　　2 bay leaves, crumbled

　　1 sprig fresh rosemary, leaves only

　　4 bone-in pork chops (about 1 1/2 inches thick, 10 to 12 ounces each)

　　

Chutney

2 cups Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay

　　2 cups sugar

　　1/2 cup cider vinegar

　　1 cinnamon stick

　　2 large quinces, peeled, quartered, cored, and cut into 1/2-inch dice

　　2 tablespoons vegetable oil

　　

Step 1

For the brine: Bring all the ingredients to a simmer in a saucepan. Transfer to a bowl and chill the brine quickly by placing the bowl in an ice bath. Put the chops in a nonreactive container just large enough to hold them in a single layer. Add the chilled brine—it should cover the chops—then cover the container and refrigerate overnight. Remove the chops from the brine, pat dry, and bring to room temperature before roasting.

　　

Step 2

For the chutney: In a saucepan, combine the wine, sugar, vinegar, and cinnamon stick. Bring to a simmer over moderate heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the quince, stir to moisten, and return to a simmer. Adjust the heat to maintain a brisk simmer and cook until the quince is tender but not mushy, about 12 minutes. Let cool to room temperature. Remove the cinnamon stick.

　　

Step 3

Preheat the oven to 450°F.

　　

Step 4

Heat a 12-inch cast-iron skillet or other ovenproof skillet over high heat. Add the vegetable oil. When the oil is hot, add the chops. Cook until nicely browned in spots, 3 to 4 minutes, then turn the chops with tongs, reduce the heat slightly, and sear on the second side, about 2 minutes. Place the skillet in the oven. Roast until the chops register 135°F on an instant-read thermometer, 8 to 10 minutes longer. (Insert the thermometer horizontally to get an accurate reading.) Let rest for 5 minutes before serving to allow the juices to settle.

　　

Step 5

To serve, transfer the chops to individual dinner plates or a serving platter. Spoon some of the chutney over them, or pass the chutney separately. Serve immediately.

　　

Step 6

Enjoy with Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay Reserve or another barrel-fermented Chardonnay.

　　The Cakebread Cellars American Harvest Cookbook