Even as they become increasingly common, there remains something special, even exotic, about mushrooms. And combining their various forms allows you to make a splendid and impressive soup in less than half an hour. The best-tasting dried mushrooms are dried porcini (also called cèpes), which have come down about 50 percent in price over the last few years (do not buy less than an ounce or so at a time—you can buy them by the pound, too—or you’ll be paying way too much). Or you can start with inexpensive dried shiitakes, readily available in Asian markets (where they’re also called black mushrooms), or any other dried fungus, or an assortment. An assortment of fresh mushrooms is best, but you can simply rely on ordinary button (white) mushrooms or shiitakes (whose stems, by the way, are too tough to eat).

　　

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

　　2 ounces dried mushrooms (about 1 cup)

　　2 tablespoons butter

　　6 to 8 ounces fresh mushrooms, trimmed and sliced

　　Salt and freshly ground black pepper

　　2 tablespoons chopped shallot

　　1 cup heavy cream

　　2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice, or to taste

　　Chopped fresh chervil or parsley for garnish (optional)

　　

Step 1

Put the dried mushrooms in a saucepan with 5 cups of water; bring to a boil, cover, turn the heat to low, and simmer for about 10 minutes, or until tender.

　　

Step 2

Meanwhile, put the butter in a skillet and turn the heat to medium high. When the butter melts, add the sliced fresh mushrooms and turn the heat to high. Cook, stirring occasionally and seasoning with salt and pepper, until they give up their liquid and begin to brown, about 5 minutes. When the dried mushrooms are tender, scoop them from the liquid with a slotted spoon and add them to the skillet along with the shallot. When all the fresh mushrooms are browned and the shallot is tender, about 3 minutes later, turn off the heat.

　　

Step 3

Strain the mushroom-cooking liquid through a cheesecloth-, napkin-, or towel-lined strainer; measure it and add water or stock to make sure you have at least 1 quart. Rinse the saucepan and return the liquid to it. Add the mushrooms and cream and heat through; taste and adjust the seasoning. Add the lemon juice, taste once more, garnish if you like, and serve.

　　From Mark Bittman's Quick and Easy Recipes From the New York Times by Mark Bittman Copyright (c) 2007 by Mark Bittman Published by Broadway Books.Mark Bittman is the author of the blockbuster Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.